Uhambo oludabula imakethe yabathakathi: amasiko, i-yatiris kanye nokuqhathanisa

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Enkabeni yeLa Paz, endaweni engaphezu kwamamitha angu-3 600 ngaphezu kogu lolwandle, kwenzeka isenzakalo esibonakala sisuka kwesinye isikhathi: imigwaqo yamatshe aluhlaza, kuphuma intuthu yempepho, futhi, phakathi kwezitolo, isithembiso samakhambi, iziphandla, nemithandazo ehlanganisa umuntu nezinto ezingcwele. Lapho, ochungechungeni lwemigwaqo emincane eduze neBasilica yaseSan Francisco, kulele lokho abaningi abakwazi ngokuthi imakethe yabathakathi, indawo lapho ezokuvakasha, isiko, nenkolo yama-Andean eye yazisungula kabusha ihlala khona. Lolu hambo lwemakethe yezangoma ezingaqondakali Akukhona nje okuhlangenwe nakho okubonwayo: kuwuhambo lwemikhuba nezimpawu ezimele isikhathi eside.

Asibheki isilungiselelo esingavamile, kodwa indawo ephilayo. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, ojosaka namakhamera ezivakashi ezinelukuluku; ngakolunye, abantu bendawo abafika ngasese bezobonisana nababizwa ngokuthi yi-yatiris, "abazaziyo," amadoda nabesifazane abafunda amahlamvu e-coca, balungise iminikelo, futhi benze inhlambuluko. Phakathi kukaLinares Street kanye nendawo yase-El RosarioIzitolo zegrosa zihlala kanye nezindawo zokucobelelana ngolwazi nezingcweti, okuthi, ngaphandle kokuzijabulisa, zigcine inkumbulo engokwesiko yase-Andes. Ukuvakasha okuqondisiwe kuningi-okuvame ukuphelela e-Coca Museum-kodwa ingqikithi yale migwaqo ayikwazi ukuthwebula ngokugcwele ngokuvakasha okusheshayo.

Indawo ehlanganisa ukuzinikela, ezohwebo nezokuvakasha

Isethi yemigwaqo eseduze ne-Basilica yaseSan Francisco iba yisekethe lapho yonke into ibonakala inendawo yayo: amahostela, izitolo, izindawo zokudlela, nezitolo ezincane konke kuxhumene ndawonye. Izitebele zihlelwe ngendlela yamazombezombe Futhi izivakashi zithathwa ukububula kwamazwi anikeza iziphonso, amakhandlela, namakha athembisa inhlanhla noma uthando. Kodwa-ke, ngaphansi kwesiphithiphithi, i-cadence yezinto ezingcwele iyabonakala: kukhona ukubuka okuhlakaniphile, izinyathelo zamabomu, kanye nokuziphatha okungabhaliwe okumema ukubhekwa ngenhlonipho.

Ukuvakasha kokuhamba ngezinyawo kunikezwa ukukusiza uqonde umlando wendawo kanye nombono wayo womhlaba, uqondiswa ochwepheshe abachaza izincazelo nemikhuba; ungabonisana izibonelo zohlelo lohamboEziningi zalolu hambo ziphetha e-Coca Museum, lapho isitshalo esifanekisela kakhulu lesi sifunda kanye nendima yaso yesiko kuhambisana nezimo. Akuyona yonke into ewumbukwane: Omakhelwane bazulazula kuyona le migwaqo nsuku zonke, bethenga izinto zokubusisa indlu, bavule ibhizinisi, noma balungise ubudlelwano obufayo. Umngcele phakathi kwansuku zonke nokungajwayelekile lapha akuwona umugqa; iwuchungechunge oluboshwe esinyathelweni ngasinye.

Phakathi kwalabo abazulazula endaweni benganakile kukhona ama-yatiri. Akulula ukubabona ngoba abawugqoki umfaniswano. Abaningi baphatha ama-chuspa —izikhwama ezalukwa ngoboya be-camelid—ezinezinyanda zamaqabunga e-coca, iziphambano, izinsalela, nezinto ezisetshenziswa emikhubeni yawo. Ukuba khona kwabo kunembile kunokuboniswa; bayavela, baxoxe ngokukhululeka, babheke izimpahla, futhi bangene phakathi kwamatafula kalula kwalabo abebelokhu beyingxenye yezwe.

Yini ethengiswayo: kusuka ku-amulet yansuku zonke kuya kuphawu olungcwele

Uhlu lwalokho okuvezwa ezingubeni nasezibalini kukhulu njengoba kungakazibuthe. Ama-skulls okuhlobisa, ama-potions ngokumelene neso elibi kanye nezimpushana zenhlanhla zibonakala.Okunye okutholakalayo amabhodlela athembisa umsebenzi, izixha zemithi “elapha yonke into noma cishe yonke into,” ama-rue gels, namacologne okuthiwa akhanga imali. Eceleni kwalawa kunamabhotela athi "akhulisa izinwele," i-palo de santo (ukhuni olungcwele), impepho enamakha nemibala ayinkulungwane, noboya bezimvu noma imicu yoboya be-llama obusetshenziswa ngendlela engokomfanekiso.

I-assortment iqedwa ngeziphambano, imizenke, neziphambano zamapulangwe eziqoshiwe ze-Virgin Marys kanye neziphambano zase-Andean. Kukhona namasongo, imigexo, namacici ahlotshiswe ngembewu ye-huayruro—ebomvu nemnyama, emelela inhlanhla—kanye nonodoli bakashukela okuhloswe ukuba “bamnandi” ubunzima bansuku zonke. Kukhona izinsimbi zomculo zendabuko ezifana ne-maracas, imitshingo nezinti zemvula, kanye nama-lotion "avuselelayo" ocansini, amakhandlela okuheha izithandani, izimpushana ukuze "zixoshe" umona, nezibalo ze-wax eziklanyelwe ukwenza kusebenze iziphonso zothando. Okunikezwayo akupheli emehlweni abantu abavamile, kodwa labo abeza nesicelo esicacile bazi kahle ukuthi bakhethe ini nokuthi bacele bani.

Phakathi kwezinhlobonhlobo ezinjalo, kukhona ama-protagonists amabili angaphikiswa: iqabunga le-coca ne-sullus, okungukuthi, i-llama, i-alpaca, noma ezinye izimbungu zezilwane. I-Coca ingumnikelo nezwi, imoto yokubonisana kanye nebhuloho eliya kophezulu ekufundeni okwenziwa yi-yatiris. Ngakolunye uhlangothi, abakwaSullus, baqinisekisa izinkokhelo ezinkulu kuMother Earth; ngokuvamile ayingxenye yamatafula amasiko ayinkimbinkimbi futhi abizayo. Abanikazi bezitolo bachaza ngokuphikelelayo ukuthi le mibungu iphuma ekukhipheni izisu ngokuzenzekelayo, enzalweni engasindi emakhazeni endaweni ephakeme, noma evela ezilaheni ezibelethweni zonina. Ukucaciswa okukhombisa umbono odalwe ukuzibona zilenga ngamaqoqo ukuze zibonwe yibo bonke.

Kwenye yalezo zingxoxo zasemgwaqweni, uMarcela—umthengisi onezinwele ezidayiwe futhi omomotheka ngezinyo legolide—usho umusho ofingqa konke: “Ungathola yonke into lapha, ndodana, yonke into. Ibinzana lizwakala njengesiqubulo esithuthukisiwe. Nokho, kuyiqiniso. Eceleni kwayo, amabhodlela amancane nezisonga ezigcwele imiyalezo eqondile—inhlanhla eyengeziwe, uthando olwengeziwe, imali eyengeziwe—kuhambisana nokuthula nokushukuma komzimba okusho okuningi njengamalebula. Iziqondiso zokuhamba zivame ukumaka le ndawo njengokuthi "okufanele ukubone," futhi akukho ukushoda kwezincomo kumagazini neziteshi zokuhamba okuthi, phakathi kweminye imizila enqamula eBolivia—kusuka enkabeni yeLa Paz kuya emaflethini kasawoti e-Uyuni—kugxile kule makethe ngenxa yamagnetic ayo angenakuphikwa.

August noMama Earth: Lapho "Evula Umlomo Wakhe"

Uma kunenyanga eveza ukushuba kwesiko, ngu-Agasti, isizini ye-Pachamama. Kuthiwa-ke "uMhlaba uvula umlomo wawo," futhi kufanele "udliwe" ngeminikelo. UBelinda, inyanga yase-El Alto, ukufingqa ngenkani: "Umlomo ovulekile; kufanele ubeke imali," esho, ebhekisela ezinkolweni. Umnikelo ngamunye uklanyelwe izidingo zomuntu owucelayo: uthando, umsebenzi, ukuchuma, impilo, noma isivikelo. Awekho amatafula amasiko amabili afanayo, nakuba anenhliziyo evamile engokomfanekiso.

Okubizwa ngokuthi amatafula noma izinkokhelo zomhlaba ziqoqwe ngokucophelela yi-yatiris. Ngaphakathi kukhona amaswidi amise okwezindlu noma izinhliziyo, uvolo, amaqabunga e-coca, izinhlaka ezinamakha, izithelo, izimbali, imbewu, uju, amafutha e-camelid, kanye neqoqo le-motley "laswidi" anemibala emelela imiqondo efana nenhlanhla, imali, indlela, ukuthula, noma impilo. Amatafula abiza kakhulu ahlanganisa i-sullu, futhi lapho eseqedile, aboshwe ngentambo noma ngentambo ngaphambi kokuba ashiswe. Ukushiswa akukona nje ukuphela kwesiko: ukufunda, ukuhumusha, nomlayezo.

Imile phezu kwe-brazier, i-yatiri ibheka lapho intuthu ibheke ngakhona, indlela inhlaka eqhekeka ngayo, kanye nesivinini amalangabi ashwabadela ngaso izithako. "Kuhambe kahle, kuhle," kusho uBelinda lapho umlilo "ukhuluma." Kulo mzuzu, igama elithi jallalla liphinyiselwa, igama lesiQuechua-Aymara, empeleni, elihlanganisa ithemba, umkhosi, nentokozo. Kuyisicelo kanye nokubonga ngesikhathi esifanayo., ibhuloho lezilimi phakathi kwentando yomuntu nentando yasemhlabeni. Lapho konke sekuphelile, amalahle nomlotha kuyagqitshwa: umjikelezo uyavaleka, futhi lokho okunikezwayo kubuyela emhlabathini owugcinayo.

Umlilo, okhona yonke indawo, usebenza njengomlamuleli. Sebenzisa, guqula, humusha: izenzo ezintathu, lapha, ziyisenzo esifanayo. Amalangabi aphendule izifiso zibe izimpawu lokho uchwepheshe akuhumushayo ukuze anikeze izincomo noma izexwayiso. Abukho ubungcweti: kunekhodi efundwa ngesineke, edluliswa ezizukulwaneni ezithatha umthwalo "wokwazi ukunakekela" impilo "nokwazi ukuthi zelaphe kanjani," izinkulumo ezimbili ezifingqa ukuhlakanipha okumbaxambili okushiwo kulaba baqondisi bakamoya base-Andean.

Yatiris: "labo abazi" futhi ufunde lokho abanye abangakuboni

Ama-Yatiris awamemezi amagama awo. Uma ubazi, ngemininingwane emincane: isigqoko esimnyama, indlela abazizwa ngayo i-coca eshiya, ijubane abahlola ngalo izitebele. Amaqabunga e-Coca, iziphambano, amaketanga nezinsalela zihamba nge-chuspas yazo.; amathuluzi okufunda, ukuphulukisa, ukuvikela, nokweluleka. Bafunda kubadala babo futhi, ezimweni eziningi, babika ukuthi "babizwe" ngombani, imibono, noma amaphupho anamandla ayebaqondisa. Umphakathi uphendukela kubo ukuze uxoxe nokhokho babo abangababheki: ama-achachilas nama-awichas, ubukhona obuqondisa, obuvikelayo, futhi obuhambisana nabo kumbono wezwe wase-Andean.

Ngaphezu kwezitshalo, izimpande, nama-resin, bayawazi "amatshe entaba" nolimi lwamaphupho. Benza ukuhlanza ukuze basuse izithiyo futhi benze ukuphulukisa okuhlanganisa umthandazo, intuthu, nokushukuma komzimba. Ithuluzi lakhe elaziwa kakhulu yiqabunga le-coca.: Engubeni, etafuleni, noma phansi, basakaza amakhadi njengokungathi bashova amakhadi, futhi bakhiphe izimpendulo endaweni yabo, ukusondela, noma ukuthintana. Ngalokhu kufunda, baphendula imibuzo ethile, bachaze intuthuko engenzeka yesikhathi esizayo, futhi batusa izindlela zokunqoba izithiyo. Lokhu akukhona ukubikezela inhlanhla embukisweni; iwuhlaka lwencazelo olunemithetho namakhodi alo.

Amagugu, ulwazi nezingxabano ezikhona

Inani lamasiko lemakethe laqashelwa ngokusemthethweni ngo-2019, lapho uMkhandlu Wedolobha LaseLa Paz uyimemezela njengendawo Yamagugu Amasiko Angaphatheki. Isimo sayo njengendawo yolwazi saziswa., indawo lapho iminikelo nemikhuba ihlanganisa ukubuka komhlaba okusabalele kuso sonke isifunda sase-Andean. Nokho, lo mehluko awuzange uwuvikele engxabanweni. Ezokuvakasha—ezihlatshwe umxhwele ubuningi be-sullus embukisweni—zihambisana nezikhalo nokulawula ukuze kuvinjelwe imikhuba engqubuzana nokongiwa kwezilwane zasendle.

Abathengisi baphinda ingxabano efanayo njalo lapho umuntu emangazwa yizimbungu ezilengayo: ziphuma ekuhushuleni izisu okungokwemvelo, ezinganeni ezingakwazi ukumelana namakhaza, noma ezinganeni ezatholakala ezilaheni ezibelethweni zonina. Kodwa impikiswano ayigcini kuSullusIziphathimandla zithole izingxenye noma izibonelo zezinhlobo ezinjengamalulwane, izibankwa, izidladla zempungushe, namaxoxo kwamanye amashalofu. Ubungozi bezempilo kanye nesibopho sokuvikela imvelo kuye kwaholela ekwandeni kokulawula kanye nokugadwa, emzamweni wokugcina ukulingana phakathi kokuvikela imikhuba yasendulo kanye nokulwa nokushushumbiswa kwezilwane.

Ukudonsa kwenganekwane: phakathi kokungcwele kanye ne-grotesque

Bathi yizivakashi zakwamanye amazwe ezaqhakambisa igama elithi "imakethe yabathakathi." Ngaphambi kokuba umakhelwane udume, ama-chifleras (abathengisi bezitshalo) base bevele bebambe la makhona, benikeza amakhambi nezeluleko. Ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, izincwadi zokuqondisa zabhala le ndawo ngokuthi "must- see", futhi ukugeleza kwezibukeli ezinelukuluku kwenza konke okunye. Namuhla, izitolo zemisebenzi yezandla zikhona nezitolo zemithi yesintu lapho ungathenga khona itafula eliphelele lemicikilisho, iziphandla zazo zonke izifo, nezithako zazo zonke izinhlobo.

Indawo ihlala endaweni eyindida njalo. Kwabanye, ubuhle bayo bungase bube semngceleni we-grotesque; kwabanye abaningi, iyindawo engcwele evulekile lapho kuhlonishwa khona uMama woMhlaba. “Lapha sihlonipha umama wethu,” kuhlebeza umdayisi, ngokushesha esikisela ufudu ukuze lwenezele iminyaka ekuphileni komuntu, isikhova ukuze sandise ukuhlakanipha komuntu, noma i-condor yohambo oluphephile kanye nenhlanhla. Phakathi kwemikhiqizo yenkanyezi kukhona ethi "Woza Kimi Insipho" —okuthiwa ngeke kuvinjwe ukukhanga umngane womshado—kanye nezigcobo ezaziwa kakhulu “eziyi-7 machos,” abathengisi abathi ngokuhlekayo “angeke zehluleke neze.” Amashalofu afakwe inqwaba yamabhodlela: ama-concoctions, insipho, ama-balm, ama-potions, ama-elixirs, kanye ne-concoctions enamalebula ezigaba.

Ngaphandle kokukhanga kwayo kwezohwebo, le ndawo isebenza njengesibuko sedolobha elixhumana nonkulunkulu balo ngenkathi yamukela labo abavela ngaphandle. Okungcwele nokungcolile kuyahambisana Phakathi kwama-wisps entuthu nama-mosaic anemibala. Kumhambi, isipiliyoni singabonakala njengemyuziyamu ngaphandle kwamakesi okubonisa; kulowo ozinikele, i-altare lansuku zonke umuntu abuyela kulo ngokuphindaphindiwe. Lobu bunye, kukude nokubuhlanekezela, buwugcina buphila futhi buwuguqule ube umngcele phakathi kwemihlaba emibili: owezinganekwane ezihlala njalo nowamakhamera afuna ukuwathwebula.

Izindaba, ukufundwa nokuvakasha okuqondisiwe

Labo abangena kule migwaqo benomhlahlandlela banikezwa umongo nomlando: ukuthi isho ukuthini imibala yamaswidi angokwesiko, ukuthi ukhokha nini, amatafula ahlelwa kanjani, nendlela efanele yokubingelela nokuhleleka. Imizila eminingi iphelela eCoca Museum, lapho siqonda khona ukuthi kungani leli qabunga lingaphezu kophawu: liwukudla okungokwesiko, imithi, kanye nethuluzi lokubhula. Le nhlanganisela yencazelo nolwazi isenza sibone ukuthi ngaphansi kwezimbiza namakhandlela kukhona iwebhu yezincazelo eziyinkimbinkimbi njengoba ihambisana.

Ngaphandle kohambo oluqondisiwe, isimo somakhelwane esinempilo sikumema ukuthi uzulazule ngokunethezeka. Izingxoxo zivela ngokwemvelo, iseluleko sivela lapho ungasilindele, futhi kungazelelwe, ukuthinta kwembula okungaphezu kwengxoxo ende. Okubalulekile yinhlonipho: buza, lalela, vuma ukuthi akukhona konke okukhona. Ezinye izinto zingezalabo abaphila ngazo, futhi lo mngcele—okungesona isivimbelo, kodwa kunalokho okuyisinyathelo sokuqapha—ugcina imakethe ingabi yi-caricature.

I-Echoes eSpain: I-Talavera kanye nempelasonto yayo eyimfihlakalo

Ukukhangwa kwemikhuba, izindaba, nezimpawu akugcini nje e-Andes. E-Spain, i-Talavera de la Reina inikeza impelasonto ekhetheke kakhulu kulabo abajabulela esoteric nenganekwane. Ubusuku Bemiphefumulo Yonke kanye neMakethe yesi-2 ye-San Jerónimo Ubuthakathi nobuthakathi Zethulwa njengomcimbi okabili ngo-Okthoba 31 no-November 1, eduze nomgubho woSuku Lwabangcwele Bonke, nemisebenzi ehlanganisa umlando wendawo, ukuzijabulisa, nemisebenzi yezandla.

Ngomhla zingama-31 ku-Okthoba, ngo-20:30 p.m., kuzosuka umzila okhethekile we-All Souls' Night Route e-Rafael Morales Cultural Centre unqamule emigwaqweni ye-Old Town. I-Ocultura Talavera ixhumanisa lolu hambo, oluvula izindaba nezinganekwane kuzilungiselelo zangempela zempilo kulo lonke idolobha. Amandla anqunyelwe futhi ukubhaliswa kwangaphambili kuyadingeka. Kuyisibopho, ifomula ehlela ukuhamba futhi ikwenze kube okusondelene kakhulu. Kusihlwa kuzobe kukhona uJesús Ortega, wohlelo lomsakazo i-El Dragón Invisible (Radio Castilla-La Mancha), njengomphathi wemicimbi.

I-Rafael Morales Centre ngokwayo izophinde isingathe umbukiso onikezelwe kumfihlakalo, ukwesaba, nemikhuba, ehambisana nomzila ngezingcezu nezindaba ezinweba indawo yonke engokomfanekiso ebusuku. NgoMgqibelo wokuqala kaNovembaIMakethe yaseSan Jerónimo izobamba uhlelo olukhethekile olugxile ebuthakathini nasebuthakathini, lwengeze izitebele zemilingo, izikhala ze-esoteric, nabafundi abahlukahlukene be-tarot emihlatshelweni evamile yemisebenzi yezandla egcwalisa imigwaqo emangalisa kakhulu yeDolobha Elidala.

Kuzoba nemidlalo yeshashalazi ngezikhathi ezehlukene usuku lonke, ukuxoxwa kwezindaba zabathakathi, nokudayiswa kwezigqizo, amakhambi, namaswidi ahlobene nendikimba. I-2nd San Jerónimo Witchcraft and Sorcery Market Izothumela izitebele zayo e-Plaza San Pedro, e-Plaza de San Agustín, kanye nase-Pescaderías Street, ngokulindelwe—ngokoMkhandlu Wedolobha—yokuphinda impumelelo ngokuya nokubamba iqhaza emicimbini edlule. Ukuvuma ngekhanda kwesikhashana kumlingo okuthi, nakuba kuhluke kakhulu endaweni yonke yase-Andean, kuveza intshisekelo eyabiwe ezindabeni ezibekela inselelo ebonakalayo.

Ngakolunye uhlangothi, indawo yaseLa Paz yamemezela Ifa Lenkambiso Engaphatheki ngendima yayo njengendawo engcwele yolwazi neminikelo; ngakolunye, idolobha laseCastilian elihlela imizila enetimu nezimakethe ukuhlola izinganekwane zalo zasemadolobheni. Ababili babheka okungaqondakali ezingaqhudelani, kodwa kunalokho ziyaphelelisana: zombili zibonisa ukuthi ukuthakaseleka ngesiko, uphawu kanye nesithembiso sokuvikela kusaphila kakhulu.

Kulabo abafika e-La Paz, ukuzizwisa akufani nokuhambahamba emakethe futhi kufana nesifundo esithulile: izithako ezisho okuthile, amagama ahlabayo, izandla ezaziyo. Futhi kulabo abavakashela eTalavera, ubumnandi bezindaba zasebusuku kanye nemakethe exuba imisebenzi yezandla ne-tarot, amakhonsathi namaswidi anamagama amnandi.

"Imakethe yabathakathi abangaqondakali" ayilona iposikhadi noma iqhinga labavakashi; kuwumnyango ovulekile oholela endleleni yokuqonda umhlaba lapho yonke into ixhumeke kuwo: indlu entsha oyithengayo, umsebenzi owufunayo, uthando olucelayo, impilo oyivikelayo. Ukusuka eLa Paz kuya eTalavera, amasiko ashintsha isimo, kodwa agcina isigqi sawo esibalulekile: isifiso sokukhuluma nalokho okungabonakali ukuze sinakekele lokho esikuthintayo nsuku zonke.